Alexandra Carlin
Alexandra Carlin set her sights on becoming a perfumer at 18 after hearing an interview with a perfumer on the radio. She enrolled at ISIPCA in 2002. After graduating, she went on to join Symrise and is now Senior Fine Fragrance perfumer at IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances).
Along her career path, Alexandra was mentored by the legendary Maurice Roucel – only realising some way into their working relationship that he had been that perfume who gave the life-changing radio interview. A great reader and fan of literature, her fragrances are always beautifully narrative-driven. They have included BDK Velvet Tonka (and the newer Extrait), Villa Néroli and 312 Saint-Honoré, as well as Diptyque Kyoto, L’Atelier Givenchy Immortelle Tribal and several fragrances for Amouage, notably Honour Woman (with Violaine Collas), Honour 43 Woman Exceptional Extrait, and Beloved Man.
When does your day start?
My day starts at 6.30am with a white chocolate matcha latte made by my husband. Whenever I can, I do a bit of yoga. I take my kids to school at 8.15 and after, it takes another 45 minutes by Métro to get in to work. During this time, I can read, listen to podcasts – or answer some interview questions!
Where do you work?
I mainly work in my office at IFF in Neuilly, with a beautiful view on the park. It’s a bit like a room of my own, full of personal belongings, my own furniture, an entire library of books about designers, art, raw materials, and bottles of perfumes and candles I created. It’s not a solitary job—I work with many other people, evaluators, sales, marketing... and my assistant weighs all my creations in the lab.
How does your day break down?
I work all day. It’s punctuated by moments of pure creation, other times when we smell fragrances, as well as various meetings and encounters. I'm not a home office person at all!
How many fragrances might you be working on at one time?
I work on 20 to 30 projects at the same time, but not on all of them every day. It requires discipline and organisation to reach all the deadlines.
How do you work?
I compose in my head – it’s like a mental framework, as I can create from everywhere. I might write some inspirations in my noteboo and in my cellphone, using words. But when I translate them into perfume ingredients, I use my computer.
Do you break for lunch?
I often take a lunch break with my colleagues and sometime with clients or journalists. I like these moments. If I don't have time to do that, I will skip lunch because I would never eat alone.
“‘I love creating after a meditation or yoga session, for example. The energy I draw from it influences my entire working day.’”
What will the afternoon be spent on?
The afternoons are often similar to the mornings, punctuated by moments of creation, smelling sessions and meetings. But each day is also different and brings its own share of surprises!
When does your day end?
I go home around 8pm, then I spend a bit of time with my kids reading some books.
Do you continue to think about the fragrances when you get home?
Fragrances I’m working on are always in my head – and on my arms and in my neck! I really need to do this, in order to live with them and improve them.
Do you have to be in a particular mood to create?
Fortunately not ! But I love creating after a meditation or yoga session, for example. The energy I draw from it influences my entire working day.
Is a moodboard helpful to you?
Anything coming from the brand is useful: words, moodboard, movie, designer quotes... any essential detail that can be a starting point for creation.
What is the most number of modifications you’ve ever had to do, on a fragrance? And the least?
I didn't keep count. But in terms of the maximum, it’s the brand which decides when it’s finished – otherwise, I would always keep going! The minimum? One!
“‘Fragrances I’m working on are always in my head – and on my arms and my neck!’”
How many materials do you have at your fingertips, to work with? And how many tend to be in your regular palette?
I have access to almost 2,000, but my regular palette is around 500.
How much of your time is spent on your own creations – new accords, etc.?
I don’t separate my own inspirations and creative ideas and accords. Everything is connected, intimately linked. A portion of my time is also dedicated to collaborations with other artists; I do several of these each year.
Do you listen to music while you work – and if so, what?
I don't listen to music while working, but I do on my way to work and at night when I get home. I have eclectic musical tastes: bossa nova, rap, Bollywood songs, rock, New Wave, Satie, Bartok, Debussy...
What is the one fragrance you wish you had created?
Dior Fahrenheit… Then, Kenzo Air, Cartier Déclaration, L’Eau d'Issey Pour Homme, Dior Homme, Baccarat Rouge...!