Season 7 • Episode 20: Modern Fragrances Wwith a Vintage Vibe
In this week's episode, we're leaning into the our nostalgia needs and exploring the wonderful world of vintage inspired fragrances.
Here's what we discuss:
Guerlain Shalimar L’Essence Eau de Parfum Intense
“Shalimar celebrates its 100th anniversary. To mark this exceptional event, the Maison is revealing Shalimar L’Essence, a new intense variation which concentrates Shalimar’s distinctive codes: its quintessence. A homage to the timeless modernity, daring and seduction of Guerlain’s most famous scent for women. Delphine Jelk has added the precious Madagascan vanilla tincture stemming from Guerlain's ancestral know-how to the ethylvanillin found in Jacques Guerlain’s original formula, giving Shalimar a new intensity.
Discreet and subtle, bergamot illuminates the floral heart which blends rose absolute with the powdery elegance of iris. Little by little, Shalimar’s amber note unfolds. Used in abundance, vanilla infuses it with new facets – smooth and woody with a hint of leather.”
‘To wear Shalimar is to let your senses take over.’ - Jacques Guerlain
‘Shalimar celebrates its 100th anniversary. To mark this exceptional event, the Maison is revealing Shalimar L’Essence, a new intense variation which concentrates Shalimar’s distinctive codes: its quintessence. A homage to the timeless modernity, daring and seduction of Guerlain’s most famous scent for women.
Delphine Jelk has added the precious Madagascan vanilla tincture stemming from Guerlain's ancestral know-how to the ethylvanillin found in Jacques Guerlain’s original formula, giving Shalimar a new intensity.
Discreet and subtle, bergamot illuminates the floral heart which blends rose absolute with the powdery elegance of iris. Little by little, Shalimar’s amber note unfolds. Used in abundance, vanilla infuses it with new facets – smooth and woody with a hint of leather.”
‘To wear Shalimar is to let your senses take over.’ – Jacques Guerlain
BienaiméVermeil
We’ve previously talked about this one quite a lot, but you must also check out their gloriously evocative new fragrance. NB Find more about Bienaimé @gather.fragrance@fioleuk@bienaime_1935
Bienaimé Vesprée
‘Vesprée captures the quiet, luminous moment between day and night. As the sun dips and the air cools, an elegant breeze of cardamom, bergamot and lavender unfurls - soft, serene, and full of anticipation.
Top notes: cardamom, bergamot, lavender, carrot seed, celery seed
Heart notes: Peru Balsam, rose, geranium, iris
Base notes: vetiver, benzoin, vanilla, cedarwood, labdanum, tonka bean, sandalwood
The fragrance opens with fresh spice and aromatic brightness before revealing a warm, resinous heart wrapped in iris and rose. As it settles, Vesprée becomes deeper and more textural, grounded in vetiver, benzoin and smooth woods. The result is a softly glowing, gender-fluid composition - equally comforting and refined, evoking the stillness and mystery of twilight.
Jouissance Parfums La Bague d’Or
(1954 inspired) ‘Beguiling, intoxicating, romantic. A bruise-coloured bouquet’.
Top notes: steel chains, pink pepper, orange flesh
Heart notes: geranium, jasmine, rose, violet
Base notes: animalic, musk, patchouli
Discotheque Fragrances Baise Moi on the Dancefloor @discothequefragrances
‘Silky waters, crystal goblets and champagne bottles, iris sprigs, wild vines of jasmine, intertwined limbs and steamy handprints, a timeless ruse, a poet and a muse, an ocean of violets in bloom, “love is a reciprocal torture,” breathed through a cloud of powder.’ 1979, PARIS
Top notes: violet leaf, cassis
Heart notes: orris, jasmine
Base notes: cashmere, sandalwood
Officine Universelle Buly Héliotrope du Pérou
The ‘unique water-based fragrance, reveals a bouquet of white flowers stung with tonka beans and violet. Charismatic, she rolls like velvet on the skin, without ever imposing herself to excess.’
Notes: heliotrope, leather, sandalwood, tonka, violet, ebony
Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre
‘Fresh floral tone, led by bergamot, tangerine & spices. A rich and powdery heart of incense & purple iris. Sensuality is enhanced by cistus, tobacco & amber. Lipstick, leather & smoke.’
@soliflore_store @naomigoodsir
Jeroboam Origino
Top notes: bergamot, pink pepper
Heart notes: juniper, nutmeg
Base notes: sandalwood, white musk
‘Worn on bare skin, Origino speaks for itself. The Esperanto word for beginnings, Origino was invented by perfumer Vanina Muracciole and marks nothing less than a new beginning; the genesis of a completely new brand and the creation of a new olfactory universe. Whilst every Jeroboam perfume is based around a musky cocktail, each one is distinct, enticing and seductive and given that the great majority of modern perfumes have a musky base, the Jeroboam stable of unisex perfume extracts are all designed to have universal appeal. Origino has top notes of bergamot and pink peppercorn that give way to a heart of juniper and nutmeg which, in turn, gives way to a base composed of sandalwood and a blend of enigmatic musks.’
Andrea Maack Craft
‘Purifying aldehydes and smouldering incense recall the crystal-clear mystery of a frozen lake at nightfall. Glittering metallic notes promise salvation, grounded in the holy sacrament of ancient resin.’
Top notes: aldehydes, ice
Heart notes: cold metal, cedarwood
Base notes: elemi, patchouli
Eris Ma Bête
‘Ma Bête (My Beast) caresses you with the suggestiveness of perfumed fur. A collision of the floral and the animal, Ma Bête combines a regal Tunisian neroli with spices and a 50 percent overdose of Antoine Lie's own animalic cocktail.
‘Ma Bête is a fierce beast with raunchy elegance.’– Antoine Lie (Perfumer)
Available in 50 ml / 1.7 fl. oz. atomizer bottles at eau de parfum concentration.
Top notes: aldehydes, Tunisian neroli, Indian nutmeg
Middle notes: Indian cypriol, Honduran styrax, Indian jasmine sambac
Base notes: Virginia cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli, synthetic animalic accord
@erisparfums @wild_iris_perfumerie
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