Season 7 • Episode 19: Perfume Prescription Special
A bulging post bag of listener questions can only mean one thing - an entire episode dedicated to matching you with your perfect perfumes!
In this one we ponder eucalyptus-forward fragrances for Kim, who’s seeking long-lasting, mind-opening invigoration. Then we turn to Astrid, our Cambridge philosophy student listener, who’s now looking for ways to channel her great-grandmother’s glamour, and cent rate by going to the Ritz on her own for a glass of Champagne . Dreamy!
Next, Pip asks for a radiant orange blossom ‘the intoxicating, sun-drenched atmosphere of Seville in summer. The kind of scent that instantly boosts my mood and brings that golden, heady feeling with it.’ And Hester wants a refreshing, citrus-y, non-macho Brazilian scent for her friend.
We suggest…
For Kim @scentworship…
Roos & Roos Globulus
Top notes: Eucalyptus Globulus leaves and buds
Heart notes: Cardamom essence and mint
Base notes: Crystal moss
‘At the top, Eucalyptus globulus in two aspects: the essence of the leaves (aromatic) and the extract of the buds (fruity greens) for a lively freshness.
In the heart, essence of spicata mint for a lively spicy burst of cardamom from Guatemala. The green facet is amplified by salviac (smell of sage leaves).In the background the cascalone blows a wind of aquatic freshness, like a morning dew. A crystal moss note (close to oak moss) creates a woody facet. A breeze of lively and minty freshness.’
D.S. & Durga Big Sur Eucalyptus
Top notes: wet wood and Eucalyptus globulous
Heart notes: cardamom and rosemary for added depth
Base notes: cypress and dry leaves
‘This eucalyptus perfume combines the aromatic beauty of eucalyptus with the rich, woody scents of the Pacific coast. Inspired by the popular Big Sur After Rain candle, this perfume captures the balmy, green and deeply spicy essence of eucalyptus groves. Top notes of wet wood, pacific spray and eucalyptus globulus blend seamlessly with heart notes of cardamom, rosemary and magnolia. The base notes include cypress and dry leaves to complete this complex and evocative fragrance.
This coastal California fragrance offers a unique sensory experience with its expertly crafted blend of natural ingredients. The result is a woody and spicy scent that evokes the cool California coast.’
For @astrid_bel
Grossmith Shem-el-Nessim
‘The name translates as Arabic for 'smelling the breeze' Originally created in 1906, this rich, luxurious fragrance typifies the Edwardian era with its warm floral powdery character. Florentine Iris, known for its rarity and expense is truly at the heart of this fragrance.
Top notes: bergamot, neroli
Heart notes: geranium, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, Orris
Base notes: musk, patchouli, cedarwood, sandalwood, heliotrope, vanilla.’
Molinard Habanita
(First launched 1921) Suzy’s review: ‘Molinard say that Habanita was the first women’s fragrance to strongly feature vetiver as an ingredient – something hitherto reserved for men, commenting that ‘Habanita’s innovative style was eagerly embraced by the garçonnes – France’s flappers – and soon became Molinard’s runaway success and an icon in the history of French perfume.’ Originaly conceived as a scent for cigarettes – inserted via glass rods or to sprinkle from a sachet – women had begun sprinkling themselves with it instead, and Molinard eventually released it as a personal fragrance.
Honeyed tobacco notes and the aforementioned vetiver along with a supremely supple leather manage to distinctly butch up the orange blossom and fruits of the opening, with a floral heart that further ruffles the feathers of gender stereotypes – jasmine and heliotrope saucily winking atop a softly powdered amber base. Truly delightful and thrillingly illicit, it’s a crime not to have tried this at least once in your life, no matter your gender.’
Lanvin Arpège
(Launched 1924) Suzy’s review: ‘Jeanne Lanvin was a contemporary of Chanel’s, and – like her – began as a milliner and seamstress, founding her own millinery fashion house at Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré. Lanvin’s daughter was her inspiration for the fragrance Arpège.It was conceived for the 30th birthday of her daughter Marie-Blanche, and took its musical reference name from a comment Marie-Blanche made on being shown the first sample, created by perfumers André Fraysse and Paul Vacher: ‘It smells like an arpeggio would’. The spherical black-and-gold bottle was a nod to their love, too, with its silhouette of a mother dressing her daughter (designed by Paul Iribe) is still so recognisable – and covetable – today.
A melody of florals – rose, iris, lily, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang ylang , camellia and geranium – the lasting impression is of being wrapped in warm, white, fluffy towels, a veritable hug in a bottle.‘
Coty L’Aimant
(Launched 1927) Suzy’s review: ‘First created by Master Perfumer François Coty in 1927, apparently inspired by the love of his life, Coty L’Aimant (meaning ‘magnet’ in French) has remained popular through the decades for its distinctive, timeless and delicate fragrance combining rose, orchid and golden jasmin softly embraced with sandalwood and vanilla.
It definitely smells delightfully retro, with a lot of the powder puff about it, but somehow those aldehydes just keep on fizzing through the ages and refuse to become fusty. And for the price, you cannot go wrong. Let’s say it’s not quite you… simply spray all your writing paper (or the boudoir curtains) with it – fabulous, dah-ling!’
Bienaimé Vermeil:
‘Originally crafted upon the brand's launch in the 1930s, Vermeil eau de parfum from Bienaimé is an elegant floral blend that invites you to dive into the fragrant world of boudoirs, where the powdery and creamy scent of rouge sticks and blush fills the air.
Indulge in the powdery aromas of iris and violet accord with this olfactory odyssey, sublimated by rose, a symbol of love and femininity, and underlined with a bewitching combination of white musk and sandalwood – housed in a refillable glass bottle, handmade in Normandy by a factory of excellence, classified as a Living Heritage Company.’
For Pip…
Serges Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger
‘Orange blossom, sweet, delicate, soft and feminine, surrounded by white flowers: jasmine, tuberose and white rose on a warm base of floral musk, hibiscus and cumin/civet.’
Mizensir Solar Blossom
‘You have the sun, you have the light and the water – always a fountain in the middle of the square – and to me, solar means your soul is being lifted upwards, you’re looking up from the cool shade of a courtyard to the sun, so powerful, above.’ – Alberto Morillas
A bewitching paean to the glorious southern city of Seville at orange blossom time.
Top Notes: Seville orange neroli essence, Paradisone® Heart Notes: Egyptian jasmine absolute, Egyptian orange blossom absolute Base Notes: Vanilla over-absolute
For Hester…
Granado Citrus Brasilis
Top notes: mandarin, lemon, bergamot
Heart notes: mint, jasmine, kumquat
Base notes: musk, violet leaves, patchouli
‘A true celebration of the joy and freshness of citrus notes, an essential part of Granado's history since its early days. This fragrance was created by Quentin Bisch from Givaudan, inspired by the scent of an orange tree in his backyard and the aromatic waters of Granado's traditional formulations. From its founding days, when José Antônio Coxito cultivated a variety of citrus trees in his orchard, the fruits were transformed into remedies like orange blossom water, compound lemon spirit, and bitter orange peel syrup.’