Season 8 • Episode 12: New Iris Scents & a Fragrant Renaissance
Presaging one of Suzy’s lead features in the the soon-to-be-published autumn edition of On The Scent magazine, this podcast episode finds Nicola and Suzy nose-deep in new iris launches. You cannot have failed to notice this note is enjoying a perfumed renaissance of late, and together they explore one of the most traditional (and costly) notes in perfumery – now made modern by perfumers exploring it in surprising ways.
From one of the all-time classic iris perfumes launching a new version after 114 years, to another historic house who’s just launched a dashingly debonair iris scent; and a brilliantly affordable iris from a high street shop that’s one of their star buys sofar this year… There’s a lot to love!
(So much so, indeed, there’s a whole Patreon exclusive episode dedicated to the olfactive overflow of other iris scents they’ve fallen for).
Meanwhile, after discussing what they’ve been sniffing lately, and Suzy’s perfume picks from an Australian brand’s stunning new East End boutique; they asked perfume pal Scott (@blublazerguy) to answer a listener’s question about fragrances to wear while visiting Edinburgh.
On with the show…
Guerlain L’Heure Bleu (new for 2026)
Perfumer Delphine Jelk says she didn’t try ‘to modernise the original L’Heure Bleue from 1912, n’or to revisit it, but to pay tribute to a masterpiece and to translate that emotion into the present through a new palette of ingredients.’ A ‘homemade iris tincture created exclusively for this perfume’ is woven into a fresher-feeling ‘ozonic blue sky accord to shiver’, together with ‘the softness of orange blossom’, on a base of vanilla, woods and musk, creating what Jelk calls ‘airy, powdery sensuality’.
‘Unlock Iris Debonair, an addictive fougère floral capturing the allure of an aesthete's domain, where every room reveals an intentional art of living. Opening with a luminous stroke of bergamot co-infused with absinthe leaves, at the heart, crisp English lavender unfolds with cool, aromatic clarity. French iris pallida, suffused in pale blue, is magnetic and among perfumery's most precious materials.
Top Notes: bergamot & absinthe, pink pepper, cardamom
Heart Notes: English lavender, violet leaf, fig pulp accord
Base Notes: French iris Pallida, ambrette, amberwood’
Astoundingly pocket-roced but smelling anything but, this refined take on iris is just £12.99 for 50ml eau de parfum. From Boots own debut "Last Note" collection, this features a sparkling pink pepper top note, a middle core of velvety iris and cashmere musk on a warm amber base. Snap it up!
Top Notes: pink pepper
Heart Notes: iris, cashmere musk
Base Notes: warm amber
Merchant of Venice Renaissance
‘By Calice Becker, this floral-leathery fragrance is inspired by Renaissance ideals of balance and harmony, housed in a golden-accented Murano glass bottle.
Top Notes: galbanum, orange blossom absolute, saffron
Heart Notes: iris, Indonesian patchouli, leather, akigalawood
Base Notes: Ambrofix™, vanilla, frankincense (Incense), musk.’
Jo Malone London Rose & Oud Leather Cologne Intense (Harrods exclusive)
Suzy was lucky enough to attend the launch, and came away eih a little bottle of this she somehow knew Nicola would adore. They say: ‘The captivating fragrance is a tribute to the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of patchouli and amber.
Top Notes: oud, leather
Middle Notes: damask rose
Base Notes: patchouli, amber.’
Thomas de Monaco Luisant Haze (kindly recommended by Kate at Wild Iris)
This is a stunning new swerve for a tuberose to take, and many fans have become throughly addicted to wearing this over summer. ‘Luisant Haze expands the Gold Collection of Thomas De Monaco Parfums with a fragrance that approaches sweetness in a different way.
At the heart of the composition is a reimagined tuberose. Not opulent or dense, but softened, diffused, and luminous. Sweetness appears here in a new form: airy rather than heavy, radiant rather than indulgent. Notes of fraise des bois, cotton candy, and tonka are lifted by white musks and amber facets, creating a transparent structure that stays close to the skin.’
‘L'Interdit Elixir evokes a precious talisman infused with power, created to unveil the magnetic strength within every woman.
The scent opens with the voluptuous intensity of Black Cherry, illuminated by the delicate bitterness of almond essence. It melts into L'Interdit's iconic bouquet of white flowers, where orange blossom, tuberose, and jasmine reveal an opulent, almost carnal femininity, enriched by the profound woody nuances of pure oakwood extract.
Faithful to Givenchy's art of contrast, L'Interdit Elixir balances shadow and light, sensuality and strength. At its most addictive, a warm, liqueur-like accord unfolds through the richness of rum absolute, davana essence, and vanilla extract, leaving behind a deeply enveloping trail. Fused with the skin, the fragrance becomes a captivating aura of confidence — a pure expression of empowered femininity.’
‘A sensual strength forged through time, I WILL awakens tenacity with confidence and leaves an intense, unmistakable trail. Created by Nathalie Lorson and Alberto Morillas, it opens with bergamot and cardamom, develops through lavender and violet leaf, and settles into Madagascan vanilla with a woody leather accord.’
Flaner fragrances: new Australian niche fragrance boutique in East London. Suzy’s favourites were:
‘Inspiration: Tram tracks connecting city streets
The sun peaks through the clouds after rain, glistening off the sleek silver tracks. Urban landscapes echo past, providing a window into the irreverent spirit of an eclectic city with backdrop of thunderous rhythm of metal. Imbuing the artistic spirit found in the canvas of urban laneways, this fragrance captures the raw, urban edge of a city's atmosphere to create something truly unique.
Notes:
Top Notes: basil, lavender, bergamot
Middle Notes: metallic, petrichor, cardamom
Base Notes: asphalt & tar, green patchouli, musk & tonka.’
‘Inspiration: Speakeasies of Manhattan
A laneway door opens and down a flight of stairs a small room with leather chairs, dark woods and the faint smell of tobacco signals a forbidden and mysterious world. Dimly lit and intimate, the night invites indulgence and seduction. A sensual tryst of cherry and dark bourbon, this fragrance evokes the boldness and intoxicating allure that comes from the Manhattan cocktail, in Manhattan of course.’
Enjoy responsibly.
Notes:
Top Notes: maraschino cherry, red vermouth, orange peel
Middle Notes: bourbon, ginger, cinnamon
Base Notes: amber wood, tobacco, leather, vanilla
Listener prescription:
Ashley Burk
‘Hello! :) I have been listening to your podcast for years and years! I feel like you both have been traveling with me around the world because you have now helped me find fragrances to wear in Greece, Ireland, and Japan! This October I got myself a ticket to go to Edinburgh, Scotland and was wondering if you could recommend me some perfume to wear while I go for a week. I will be doing the Harry Potter steam train day trip one of the days! If you know of any perfume stores I should see in Edinburgh please let me know as well. I am so excited to be there during October. Thank you both! :)’
Answer:
Scott McGlashan (aka @blublazerguy) kindly left a voice note with suggestions…
‘Ancient forest. Still air. The scent of Scotland before the world arrived.
A green woody chypre eau de parfum that opens on crushed heather and wild herbs, deepens into cool fern and forest moss, and settles into a long, intimate base of oakmoss, vetiver, and peat-warmed cedar.’
‘Royal Green Hojari frankincense, pink pepper, saffron, cistus, sandalwood Mysore, cypriol, patchouli, black hemlock, fir balsam, olibanum absolute.
A golden veil of gossamer-light. royal green Hojari frankincense soothed by fir balsam and black hemlock. Boswellia Scotia is incense reimagined; translucent, atmospheric and quietly magnetic.’
‘Crisp citrus, cool ozonic air, and dry vetiver - Aire is clarity bottled. Fresh, textured, and quietly confident.
Fresh, zesty, and mineral. Green mandarin and Calabrian bergamot open with a burst of citrus brightness before giving way to the cool lift of ozonic air and the dry, earthy depth of vetiver. A fragrance that moves with energy and purpose, settling into a steady, confident calm.
From the Scots word "aire" (a gravel-shored coastal edge where land meets sea), Aire captures the sensation of standing on a coastal edge, breathing in invigorating, mineral air as light breaks across the water. It’s bright, citrus-driven, and full of energy - the feeling of movement and clarity. Inspired by the Scottish coastline, it balances natural vibrancy with grounded calm.’
Suzy suggests visiting Jorum Studio’s shop (incredible Scottish fragrance brand) and another new niche shop we’ve heard excellent reports of:
12 St. Stephen Street, EH3 5AL
& the brilliant new niche fragrance boutique Scent-ed in Glasgow:
Want to get in touch with feedback or prescription questions for Suzy & Nicola? Message via a DM @onthescentpodcast and they’ll try to get back to you or answer on the show!
