A Day in the (Perfumer’s) Life: Alexandra Carlin talks to On The Scent
We met with Alexandra Carlin when she breezed into London recently with David Benedek, the super-creative founder of BDK Parfums, to reveal the new BDK Parfums Velvet Tonka Extrait – the latest in a line-up of Alexadra’s creations for the house that includes Villa Néroli and 312 Saint-Honoré.
Alexandra set her sights on becoming a perfumer at 18 after hearing an interview with a perfumer on the radio. She enrolled at ISIPCA in 2002. After graduating, this Paris-born perfumer spent several years in Grasse at Robertet – famed for their expertise with natural ingredients – before joining Symrise. She is now Senior Fine Fragrance perfumer at IFF [International Flavors & Fragrances]. Along her career path, Alexandra was mentored by the legendary Maurice Roucel – only realising some way into their working relationship that he had been that perfume who gave the life-changing radio interview. A great reader and fan of literature, her fragrances are always beautifully narrative-driven.
Here, she shares some of her inspirations, alongside insights into her working day as a perfumer…
BDK Parfums Velvet Tonka Extrait by Alexandra Carlin PHOTO: JO FAIRLEY
When does your day start?
My day starts at 6.30am with a white chocolate matcha latte made by my husband. Whenever I can, I do a bit of yoga. I take my kids to school at 8.15 and after, it takes another 45 minutes by Métro to get in to work. During this time, I can read, listen to podcasts – or answer some interview questions!
Where do you work?
I mainly work in my office at IFF in Neuilly, with a beautiful view on the park. It’s a bit like a room of my own, full of personal belongings, my own furniture, an entire library of books about designers, art, raw materials, and bottles of perfumes and candles I created. It’s not a solitary job—I work with many other people, evaluators, sales, marketing... and my assistant weighs all my creations in the lab.
How does your day break down?
I work all day. It’s punctuated by moments of pure creation, other times when we smell fragrances, as well as various meetings and encounters. I'm not a home office person at all!
How many fragrances might you be working on at one time?
I work on 20 to 30 projects at the same time, but not on all of them every day. It requires discipline and organisation to reach all the deadlines.
How do you work?
I compose in my head – it’s like a mental framework, as I can create from everywhere. I might write some inspirations in my notebook and in my cellphone, using words. But when I translate them into perfume ingredients, I use my computer.
Do you break for lunch?
I often take a lunch break with my colleagues and sometime with clients or journalists. I like these moments. If I don't have time to do that, I will skip lunch because I would never eat alone. an ego problem! At the end of the day, it’s just an office; you can bring your personal things.. The building is in a U-shape, with the perfumers in the corner at the end, and our windows look on to a small park. Lots of natural light, a feeling of being in nature.
“‘I love creating after a meditation or yoga session, for example. The energy I draw from it influences my entire working day.’”
What will the afternoon be spent on?
The afternoons are often similar to the mornings, punctuated by moments of creation, smelling sessions and meetings. But each day is also different and brings its own share of surprises!
When does your day end?
I go home around 8pm, then I spend a bit of time with my kids reading some books.
Do you continue to think about the fragrances when you get home?
Fragrances I’m working on are always in my head – and on my arms and in my neck! I really need to do this, in order to live with them and improve them.
Do you have to be in a particular mood to create?
Fortunately not ! But I love creating after a meditation or yoga session, for example. The energy I draw from it influences my entire working day.
Tell us all about creating the new BDK fragrance…
David wanted me to create Velvet Tonka Extrait, five years after Velvet Tonka. It was perfect timing because I had just arrived at IFF and was discovering a whole new palette of scents, including a new tonka bean that was extremely gourmand and addictive. The idea was to create a hyperbolic version of Velvet Tonka – pushing all the facets: orange blossom, gourmand richness, sensuality – and to work on an entirely new salted pistachio note.
Explain your working relationship with David – what’s the process?
Ever since our first encounter, we have developed a very fluid and respectful way of working together. During the creation process, we see each other a lot and we call each other too; he gives me a lot of feedback and I really ppreciate it , I can move forward quickly. He loves upscale ingredients and he gives me a lot of freedom and money to create! Sometimes, the creative combinations come from him and that's really cool!
Is a moodboard helpful to you?
Anything coming from the brand is useful: words, moodboard, movie, designer quotes... any essential detail that can be a starting point for creation.
What is the most number of modifications you’ve ever had to do, on a fragrance? And the least?
I didn't keep count. But in terms of the maximum, it’s the brand which decides when it’s finished – otherwise, I would always keep going! The minimum? One!
How many materials do you have at your fingertips, to work with? And how many tend to be in your regular palette?
I have access to almost 2,000, but my regular palette is around 500.
“‘Fragrances I’m working on are always in my head – and on my arms and my neck!’”
How much of your time is spent on your own creations – new accords, etc.?
I don’t separate my own inspirations and creative ideas and accords. Everything is connected, intimately linked. A portion of my time is also dedicated to collaborations with other artists; I do several of these each year.
Do you listen to music while you work – and if so, what?
I don't listen to music while working, but I do on my way to work and at night when I get home. I have eclectic musical tastes: bossa nova, rap, Bollywood songs, rock, New Wave, Satie, Bartok, Debussy...
What is the one fragrance you wish you had created?
Dior Fahrenheit… Then, Kenzo Air, Cartier Déclaration, L’Eau d'Issey Pour Homme, Dior Homme, Baccarat Rouge…!
BDK Parfums Velvet Tonka Extrait £280 for 100ml extrait de parfum